Prada Spring 2015 was live streamed to the world at Milan Fashion Week this year and from the moment the shapes of cascading purple sand dunes were visible, one realised something challenging and off-kilter was about to begin. Camel leather, pastel brocade and accents of deep navy are key parts of this very trans-seasonal story next spring. Panelled coats and dresses with structured stitched lines are offset splendidly against delicate textiles and detailing. Necklines are high and ornamented, or scooped across the chest and bare – all the better to frame your collarbones and shoulders.
While prim and proper coats, dresses and skirts are now bread and butter for Prada - though nonetheless beautiful - it is the conceptual readings behind each collection which makes it brilliant. Spring 2015 is unravelled opulence, what happens to luxury when it becomes worn in. Do the garments become any less marvellous or are they now just a little frayed? One can imagine Prada’s heroine taking a ‘Grey Gardens’ fall from grace, yet still proudly clinging to the clothes, jewels and bag which matched her life before her situation set in. She is a bit bourgeois, but notably strong in sensibility and conviction.
Although, anyone familiar with dress making will recognise the top stitching used for facing and lining garments and the frayed hems and edges. The collection is almost an arrested development. What happened to stop the seamstresses from completing the clothes? Or perhaps these garments were a lost oeuvre lying abandoned, and now found.
The imagination that Miuccia Prada pours into her clothes is thought-provoking and intelligent. Spring 2015 further highlights Prada's distinction among her peers and admirers of the brand will find no shortage of covetable pieces to add to their wardrobes.
View the runway video over at prada.com and anticipate the collection instore at Prada, PC Hooftstraat 63.